DIY Projects

Windsheild/Side Window Screens

Shortly after I got my class A I decided to get window screens. I didn't do a lot of checking around like I normally do and ended up getting some custom made ones for about $100 on sale. The only problem was they were the snap on style. IE - You have to drill some holes to mount the snaps. If I had it to do over I would get the roll-on version.

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Voltage Monitor

When I first started to RV in my class C I bought a voltage monitor from Camping World. I thought was pretty useful at the time. But, as time went by I and got a little smarter it became clear that I needed something better as I found out that the meter wasn't very accurate. So, I decided to make one that I could use for monitoring both AC, DC and use it for other things.

Parts:

  • 1 Multi-meter - Harbor Freight - $2.99 (on sale)
  • 2 Sets of banana plugs - Radio Shack - $5
  • 1 Cigarette lighter plug - Radio Shack - $2.50
  • 1 90° Wall Plug - Local Hardware Store - $1
  • 1 Piece of 1/8" Plastic or Lexan - Local hardware Store - $2
  • #12 Red & Black Wire - Wal Mart - $3 each

AC Plug Assembly:

Cut about 6" or 8" of wire and attach (solder) a banana plug to one end of each wire and attach the other end to the wall plug. Be sure to attach the black to the neutral side of the wall plug and the red to the hot side. Polarity on the AC side isn't as important as it is on the DC side.

DC Plug Assembly:

Cut the appropriate length of wire and attach (solder) a banana plug to one end of each wire and attach the other end to the cigarette lighter plug. Be sure to attach the red wire to the center portion of the cigarette lighter plug and the black wire to the ground portion of the plug, as polarity counts.

Wall Holder:

The wall holder was made from some scrap Lexan I had in my shop. I just scored the Lexan at the places I want to bend and then heated them with my handy dandy Harbor Freight heat gun to makes the bends.

Note - In the photo of the voltage monitor it shows almost 128 volts and the photo of the meter shows 121 volts. This could be important during the summer when the electricity is marginal at many RV parks. That's why I installed an EMS-LCHW50.

WARNING - Always remove the wall plug or the cigarette lighter plug FIRST before removing the leads from the meter to prevent the possibility of shorting the leads together.

Before

After

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Satellite Stand

I like many of you have a portable satellite and used any number of different mounts. I used a foldable tripod for a couple of years until I found a site that made one from PVC pipe. For the original site Link Here.

I made a couple small changes.

  1. I left mount in the 180° position instead of the 90° position.
  2. I did not glue the center mount so I could maintain plumb during setup.

I also removed all the nuts and replaced them with wing nuts. This allows me to setup the satellite and not use any wrenches. I also drilled out the spots welds on the feed horn arm and used some 1/4"/20 bolts and wing nuts, as this allows the feed horn arm to fold for storage.

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Heater Cart & Switch

Many of us DIYers like to work on our projects year around and need some form of heat during the cold months and I like most of you do not have AC/Heat in my building. But, I find that a 35,000 BTU Kerosene heater takes the chill off and is not all that expensive to run. A number of years ago I picked up my heater at the end of the season for something like $49. I almost bought the optional cart until I saw the price, it was only $5 or so cheaper than the heater. I figured I really didn't need it. But, moving it around got to be a real pain and it also made a lot of noise just sitting on the cement floor. So, I decided to make my own cart.

Parts:

  • Frame - scrap 2x4's - $0
  • Handle - scrap 3/4" PVC pipe & left over fittings - $0
  • Wheels - Harbor Freight - $10 for the pair
  • Bolts/Nuts/Washers - Local Hardware Store - $5
  • Paint - Wal Mart - $1

The next problem I discovered was the electrical hook up. It has a very short cord and no switch. So, each time you what to move the heater or turn the heater on/off you had to unplug it either from the wall or at the heater. I decided to modify an extension cord I had to provide an extra set of outlets and a switched outlet. Now if I want to turn the heater on/off I just flip the switch.

Parts:

  • Metal Outlet Box - Home Depot/Lowes - $1
  • Metal Cover Outlet/Switch - Home Depot/Lowes - $1
  • Metal Box Wire Clamps - Home Depot/Lowes - $1.50 bag
  • Wall Switch - Home Depot/Lowes - 50 ¢
  • Wall Outlet - Home Depot/Lowes - 50 ¢

Note - I use a Blue line to show the netural line in the wiring diagram.

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Oemy's New Tool Chest

I seem to have the Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor syndrome, "More Power - More Tools". So, I had to get a new tool chest.

I looked at Harbor Freight and Sears Craftsman. The difference was in price and name only. I think the same "Chinese" guy made them both. But, the Sears version was on sale for $220 and you got a "free" 3-drawer chest. I also had some Citi Bank rewards points, so I got me 2-$100 gift cards. As an added bonus there was a $20 mail-in rebate, a 10% associate discount (my son-in-law works at Sears), and another 10% on friends/family night. My final cost was $175 tax/title/license out the door.

But, as most of you know I can't leave anything alone for long. So, I added a handle to push the whole thing around the shop, I added a extension cord hanger on the end of the tool box, I added some small chains to hold the lid from getting bent back and I replaced the carry along box with another drawer.

The bottom line is, I have 15 drawer roll around tool chest for less than $175.

Before

After

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Chrome Exhuast Tips

I got to looking at the exhaust pipes on my rig and they looked kind of shabby so I decided to add some "shine" to the tips. I looked at Stainless Steel tips and Clamps but decided against them due to cost.

I trimmed about 8" off the exhaust pipe and added a 3" to 4"x12" Chrome extension. I used an exhaust pipe cutter to do the trimming but a Sawz All will also do the job.

If you own a Winnebago you will most likely have to cut off the steel extension the Winnebago adds.

If you want a set check out the Product Catalog and the go to my Order Page to get a set.

Before

After

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