Kwikee Triple Step Fix
This info was submitted by Tom Silbernagel.
Dale, you have been a great help over & over. Now I have a real problem with my triple step on my 2002 Newmar Mountain Aire.
The step folds up & down just fine, but the step motor has a gear problem (plastic assy broke) . The motor works just fine but cant buy new motor assy for step. Step # 909508000. I looked on internet & only found possible elrctric window lift motor (Ford) I went to my Napa store & they could not match unit & no numbers on motor other than Kwikee pt # 9551 (high torque). I went to Ford, they said looked like it was for a Ford , might be for a older unit vehicle but could not tell since could not read any Ford numbers. They stated Pep Boys may carry a gear repair kit. Pep boys does not carry such an animal. Now went to a RV dealer & they called Kwikee . They state with 3 step # I have would take a upgrade kit # 909776000. Dealer wanted $355.00 for said kit.
I have a hard time thinking I need all that because of plastic gear part problem. I do not know if you have had this problem or have heard of it, and if so what occurred to remedy it other than buy kit???
I contacted you by phone the other day on step problem (motor). Kwikee no longer has motor for step (motor #9551). They only make a replacement kit for series 24 & 25. This kit new motor & control box + new gear plate. Replacement kit # 909770000 cost $355.00.
After talking with you I went to the internet and looked in the IRV2 Newmar blog. Some nice fellow replaced his motor only, it is a 86-95 left front window lift motor for a Ford Taurus, I Went to ordered a motor part # bk665-1395. I Installed motor, voila it now works like new. It's pPossible the original problem was caused when the "C" clip broke on large gear, causing the plate to tilt & take out plastic gear in motor. If anyone else has had problem please pass this on.
6-12-2011 - The How To
Sorry I did not take pictures.
1) Unplug motor.
6.5L Diesel PMD/FSD
The 6.5L diesel used in some RV's suffers from the same problem the GM trucks do, failed PMD (Pump Mounted Driver) do to heat. The PMD is also called FSD (Fuel Solenoid). This problem has exsited for years (1998 or earlier) and continues to be a problem with vehicles like H1 Hummer, according to info posted on the Internet. GM and Stanadyne (makers of the PMD) have yet to acknowledge that a problem exsits to the extent there should be a recallto fix it. So you on are your own to repair this issue at the present time.
Most solutions are to:
I got a note from Paul Burns that his relocated PMD/FSD with heat sink and fan keeps his PMD/FSD nice and cool compared to the stock setup. DIY Engineering works!
One mans experience... PMDFAILURES
GM PMD/FSD Service Bulletins
Here are a couple of links for parts.
Or you can build you own like Pual Burns (located in the UK) did.
He purchased another PMD/FSD, an PMD extension cable, heat sink, heat sink grease and a 12V muffin fan.
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I like most you I check my tire pressures before I leave on any RV outing and sometimes even at the RV park if I am on the road a bit. It's a necessary evil and can be time consuming. If you have a TPMS system it's not to bad except if you have to add air. Well I found a pressure gauge that pretty much does it all PSICLOPS.
You can get off Ebay for about $35.
Note - There is enough hose to do both front tires.
This photo shows my rear duals.
Water-Miser Battery Caps
I took this info from the Wind & Sun web site.
"These are a bayonet type 1/4-turn twist lock cap. Fits all U.S. manufactured deep-cycle batteries except the (so-called) "maintenance free" type, or those with the plug-in 3-cap bars, such as the West Marine Sea Volt or the Interstate 12 volt group 27 marine.
Water Miser, Flip Top Battery Vent Cap, 1 1/8" bottom insert width, total width 1 3/8" x 1/4" height into battery insert and 1" height above the battery insert
Water Misers are molded plastic "flip-top" vent caps designed to reduce and ease maintenance on flooded Lead-Acid batteries.
There is no need to remove the caps when charging, filling, or equalizing the batteries. When charging, the plastic pellets capture up to 90% of the moisture and acid droplets. This reduces acid fumes, corrosion, and keeping the battery tops much cleaner and dryer. Excess water is dropped back into the battery cell.
Water loss is reduced, which extends time between watering."
They work pretty much as advetised. Here are a few photo's.
8.1L Cam Sensor Replacement
This Tech Tip was submitted by Gene Martel.
The camshaft sensor is located on the front of the engine on the timing chain cover. You can access the sensor by going underneath the motorhome favoring the driver side. Just locate the serpentine belt and it's above the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer.
Be aware that GM has discontinued many of the parts for 8.1L and not provided replacement part numbers.
ABS Light Fix
This Tech Tip was submitted by Kevin Caudill.
My ABS Light Story
The victim was a 2005 Winnebago Voyage 38J W24 Workhorse Chassis
On my way home from a long trip across the country, I was on a small country road and it was raining. I was going around 20 mph and I missed my turn and hit the brakes kind of hard and felt the ABS engage for the first time in the two years that I have owned this coach.
A few minutes later, I noticed my digital dash telling me BRAKE FAILURE CHECK ABS. Sort of freaked me out at first but everything still seemed to work. The brakes acted fine. I was only 100 miles from home so I did not bother to investigate.
Then the troubleshooting began. I unplugged the pressure differential switch fist. Light was still on. Then on to the wheel sensors, pulled all 4 out, cleaned them, pushed them all the way back in till they touched the tone ring per repair manual. Also unplugged wheel sensors and checked ohms, all four were in spec.
Now Iím thinking ABS ECM first I had to find the crazy thing. That took a while. Mine is located in front of the steering box. Now some units may have a Red push button that you can push and hold for about 4 seconds and a code will start to flash. I was not so lucky so I had to cut into the wire harness and locate the green wire coming from the black connector that is plugged into the ECU and splice a wire into it then hold that wire to ground. I got it to flash but nothing that made any sense per the repair manual. Then I thought maybe the wheel signal is not making it to the ECM. So I unplugged the green connector and tested each wheel sensor at the connecter for ohms, all were good. Then I put my volt meter to the AC scale and had my wonderful wife spin each wheel confirming voltage was being generated. A little over one volt confirmed they were working.
Ok so now itís time to hook it up to a computer. I am lucky to have a workhorse dealer nearby. It takes special Meritor Wabco software to read the ABS ECM it plugs into the round connector with a gray cap next to the OBDII connector. But in my case, we got no data stream. So time for a new ECM, ordered one Installed it plugged everything back up and the BRAKE FAILURE LIGHT IS STILL ON!!! Now Iím starting to get pissed off at this thing. After two days reading and nearly going blind looking and tracing wire schematics I went back to step #1 and unplugged the pressure differential switch and low and behold, the light went out. Now Iím really pissed. Did I just replace an ECU for nothing?
So I put the old ECM back on just to make sure, and thank God the light came on. So now at least I know for sure the ECM was bad. Now back to the pressure differential switch. This is the switch that is on the cast iron part of the master cylinder. Behind this switch is a spring loaded shaft that monitors the pressure from the front to rear brakes, it should always be the same. On both sides, this should not be unplugged, it is there as a safety feature. If you hit the brakes and blow a brake line or fitting, the light will come on letting you know that something is wrong.
So now I have removed the switch and notice that I canít see the groove, it should look like an hour glass as you look into the hole, so now I know the shaft is pushed all the way to one side. Time for a new master cylinder, these are very common I have seen them rebuilt for $250.00.
After installing the new brake master cylinder assembly, everything is now back to normal. No more ABS failure or brake light.
The final tally:
Got This Problem Solved: PRICELESS
Lucky for me I have Good Sam Extended Service Plan and a local WorkHorse Dealer so my out of pocketwas only $250.00 even though I did most of the trouble shooting in order to speed up the process. I have posted this story so it may help someone else in the future.
PS MeritorWabco has great service manuals at their web site.If you need help troubleshooting yours give me a call 606-561-4983 Kevin Caudill
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