Tech Tips

Kwikee Triple Step Fix

6/6/2011

This info was submitted by Tom Silbernagel.

Dale, you have been a great help over & over. Now I have a real problem with my triple step on my 2002 Newmar Mountain Aire.

The step folds up & down just fine, but the step motor has a gear problem (plastic assy broke). The motor works just fine but you can't buy a new motor assy for step. Step # 909508000. I looked on the internet & only found a possible electric window lift motor (Ford) I went to my Napa store & they could not match the unit & no numbers on the motor other than Kwikee pt # 9551 (high torque). I went to Ford, they said looked like it was for a Ford, might be for an older unit vehicle but could not tell since could not read any Ford numbers. They stated Pep Boys may carry a gear repair kit. Pep Boys does not carry such an animal. Now I went to an RV dealer & they called Kwikee. They state with 3 steps # it would take an upgrade kit # 909776000. The dealer wanted $355.00 for the said kit.

I have a hard time thinking I need all that because of the plastic gear part problem. I do not know if you have had this problem or have heard of it, and if so what occurred to remedy it other than buy kit???

6-10-2011

I contacted you by phone the other day on the step problem (motor). Kwikee no longer has a motor for step (motor #9551). They only make a replacement kit for series 24 & 25. This kit new motor & control box + new gear plate. Replacement kit # 909770000 cost $355.00.

After talking with you I went to the internet and looked at the IRV2 Newmar blog. Some nice fellow replaced his motor only, it is an 86-95 left front window lift motor for a Ford Taurus, I Went to order a motor part # bk665-1395. I Installed motor, and voila it now works like new. It's possible the original problem was caused when the "C" clip broke on the large gear, causing the plate to tilt & take out the plastic gear in the motor. If anyone else has had a problem please pass this on.

6-12-2011 - The How To

Sorry I did not take pictures.

1) Unplug motor.
2) Remove motor & moon gear teeth plate from step.
3) Remove motor from step plate.Examine the gear & plastic mechanism in the motor. Check the plate for broken or missing "C" clip (my clip was broken). This broken "C" clip caused the gear plate to wobble & damage the motor. I also installed another plastic washer under the gear plate to frame to take up any slack.
4) Installed new L/F Ford Taurus window motor (86-95 years) Part #bk655-1395. You will have to change the connection, because old connectors will not work (also the electric plug on the motor is reversed, but no problem) Now reinstall the unit back on step. It will work fine.

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6.5L Diesel PMD/FSD

The 6.5L diesel used in some RV's suffers from the same problem the GM trucks do, failed PMD (Pump Mounted Driver) due to heat. The PMD is also called FSD (Fuel Solenoid). This problem has existed for years (1998 or earlier) and continues to be a problem with vehicles like the H1 Hummer, according to info posted on the Internet. GM and Stanadyne (makers of the PMD) have yet to acknowledge that a problem exists to the extent there should be a recall to fix it. So you on are your own to repair this issue at the present time.

Most solutions are to:

1. Remotely mount the PMD to keep it cooler.
2. Add a heat sink and/or fan to help keep the PMD cool.
3. Replace the PMD
   1. New version from Stanadyne
   2. Aftermarket PMD/FSD
4. All of the above

7-28-2011 Update

I got a note from Paul Burns that his relocated PMD/FSD with heat sink and fan keeps his PMD/FSD nice and cool compared to the stock setup. DIY Engineering works!

One man's experience... PMDFAILURES

GM PMD/FSD Service Bulletins

SB 77-63-06A 7-17-1998
SB 00064G 4-18-2007
SB Other Misc Date

Huckstorfs Diesel

PMDCABLE

A1Customs Info 

A1Customs Remote

Or you can build your own like Pual Burns (located in the UK) did.

He purchased another PMD/FSD, a PMD extension cable, a heat sink, heat sink grease and a 12V muffin fan.

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PSIClops

I like most of you know I check my tire pressures before I leave on any RV outing and sometimes even at the RV park if I am on the road a bit. It's a necessary evil and can be time-consuming. If you have a TPMS system it's not too bad except if you have to add air. Well I found a pressure gauge that pretty much does it all PSICLOPS.

• Fill/Equalize 2 tires
• Fill a single tire
• Pressure relief button (let air out)
• Lighted Dial
• Molded carrying case

You can get off eBay for about $35.

Note - There is enough hose to do both front tires.

This photo shows my rear duals.

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Water-Miser Battery Caps

I took this info from the Wind & Sun web site.

"These are a bayonet type 1/4-turn twist lock cap. Fits all U.S. manufactured deep-cycle batteries except the (so-called) "maintenance-free" type, or those with plug-in 3-cap bars, such as the West Marine Sea Volt or the Interstate 12 volt group 27 marine.

Water Miser, Flip Top Battery Vent Cap, 1 1/8" bottom insert width, total width 1 3/8" x 1/4" height into the battery insert and 1" height above the battery insert

Water Misers are molded plastic "flip-top" vent caps designed to reduce and ease maintenance on flooded Lead-Acid batteries.

There is no need to remove the caps when charging, filling, or equalizing the batteries. When charging, the plastic pellets capture up to 90% of the moisture and acid droplets. This reduces acid fumes, corrosion, and keeps the battery tops much cleaner and dryer. Excess water is dropped back into the battery cell.

Water loss is reduced, which extends the time between watering."

They work pretty much as advertised. Here are a few photos.

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8.1L Cam Sensor Replacement

This Tech Tip was submitted by Gene Martel.

The camshaft sensor is located on the front of the engine on the timing chain cover. You can access the sensor by going underneath the motorhome favoring the driver side. Just locate the serpentine belt and it's above the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer.

• First disconnect the engine / starting battery.
• Remove the wiring harness from the sensor.
• You will need a 10mm offset box wrench of a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket.
• Remove the retaining bolt that holds the sensor on the timing chain cover.
• Twist the sensor while pulling it outward.
• Clean the hole with a clean lint-free towel.
• Apply a trace of clean motor oil on the new sensor O ring.
  Note: My old sensor had a shim between the sensor and the timing chain cover. I reused the same shim when I re-installed the new.
• Insert the new sensor into the hole while twisting it slightly until it is seated.
• Install retaining bolt and tighten.
• Connect wiring harness
• Connect engine / starting battery
• Clear all codes start engine and test drive.
,

Be aware that GM has discontinued many of the parts for 8.1L and not provided replacement part numbers.

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ABS Light Fix

This Tech Tip was submitted by Kevin Caudill.

My ABS Light Story

The victim was a 2005 Winnebago Voyage 38J W24 Workhorse Chassis

On my way home from a long trip across the country, I was on a small country road and it was raining. I was going around 20 mph and I missed my turn and hit the brakes kind of hard and felt the ABS engage for the first time in the two years that I have owned this coach.

A few minutes later, I noticed my digital dash telling me BRAKE FAILURE CHECK ABS. Sort of freaked me out at first but everything still seemed to work. The brakes acted fine. I was only 100 miles from home so I did not bother to investigate.

Then the troubleshooting began. I unplugged the pressure differential switch fist. The light was still on. Then on to the wheel sensors, pulled all 4 out, cleaned them, pushed them all the way back in till they touched the tone ring per the repair manual. Also unplugged wheel sensors and checked ohms, all four were in spec.

Now I'm thinking ABS ECM first I had to find the crazy thing. That took a while. Mine is located in front of the steering box. Now some units may have a Red push button that you can push and hold for about 4 seconds and a code will start to flash. I was not so lucky so I had to cut into the wire harness and locate the green wire coming from the black connector that is plugged into the ECU and splice a wire into it then hold that wire to ground. I got it to flash but nothing that made any sense per the repair manual. Then I thought maybe the wheel signal is not making it to the ECM. So I unplugged the green connector and tested each wheel sensor at the connecter for ohms, all were good. Then I put my volt meter to the AC scale and had my wonderful wife spin each wheel confirming voltage was being generated. A little over one volt confirmed they were working.

Ok so now it s time to hook it up to a computer. I am lucky to have a workhorse dealer nearby. It takes special Meritor Wabco software to read the ABS ECM it plugs into the round connector with a gray cap next to the OBDII connector. But in my case, we got no data stream. So time for a new ECM, ordered one Installed it plugged everything back up and the BRAKE FAILURE LIGHT IS STILL ON!!! Now I m starting to get pissed off at this thing. After two days of reading and nearly going blind looking and tracing wire schematics I went back to step #1 and unplugged the pressure differential switch and low and behold, the light went out. Now I m really pissed. Did I just replace an ECU for nothing?

So I put the old ECM back on just to make sure, and thank God the light came on. So now at least I know for sure the ECM was bad. Now back to the pressure differential switch. This is the switch that is on the cast iron part of the master cylinder. Behind this switch is a spring-loaded shaft that monitors the pressure from the front to rear brakes, it should always be the same. On both sides, this should not be unplugged, it is there as a safety feature. If you hit the brakes and blow a brake line or fitting, the light will come on letting you know that something is wrong.

So now I have removed the switch and noticed that I can t see the groove, it should look like an hourglass as you look into the hole, so now I know the shaft is pushed all the way to one side. Time for a new master cylinder, these are very common I have seen them rebuilt for $250.00.

After installing the new brake master cylinder assembly, everything is now back to normal. No more ABS failure or brake light.

The final tally:
ABS ECU $1163.92
Brake Master $350.63

Got This Problem Solved: PRICELESS

Lucky for me I have a Good Sam Extended Service Plan and a local WorkHorse Dealer so my out of pocket was only $250.00 even though I did most of the troubleshooting in order to speed up the process. I have posted this story so it may help someone else in the future.

PS MeritorWabco has great service manuals on their website.If you need help troubleshooting yours give me a call 606-561-4983 Kevin Caudill

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Sumo Springs Install

This Tech Tip was submitted by Mark Egan.

Sumo Spring Install Tips

I bought front and rear Sumo s for the coach. I bought the P30 s for the rears and have yet to install them.
But for the fronts, seeing the tight space for getting the nuts started on the Sumo s, I came up with a means for installing that worked out pretty well. I shared on IRV2, but thought I would share with you for your website.

I went to a local hardware store that had Tinnerman clip fasteners that had threaded side- the threads on the Sumo s are either M12 s or M10 s. I also picked up a strip of 1 x 1/8 galvanized that I then cut into 2 6 pieces and drilled a hole in the end to accept the Tinnerman clips (note these particular clips had locking pieces on the non-nut side - these required the holes in the metal pieces to be larger than the thread size of the nut).

I had to use a vibrating saw to cut the old bump stop (jounce) off as I couldn't get the old one loose using both a rubber and chain strap wrench, with a 15mm box end up top on the nut. Once the old jounce was out of the way, I used a pipe wrench to grab the washer that the jounce was molded to. But I saved the large round flat plate that was on the top of the old jounce/plate to provide a good bearing area for the Sumo s against the frame.

Old jounces after being cut off. From l to r, round plate, washer with a mounting stud that old jounce was molded to.

Sumo bump with my little invention installed as it will look when installed - although at this point I didn't have the old jounces out so as to show the round plate that I reused.

So - with the old nut out of the way, you take my little piece and slide it up into the frame and align the Tinnerman clip over the hole in the chassis. Then lift the Sumo into place and start turning. Turn until as tight as you can by hand.

Only concern is, on the driver side there are 2 metal brake lines running through that area. Care must be taken to not trap those lines under the fabricated plate. Not hard to do, just needs to be watched.